Best and Worst of My Time Abroad

After completing the journey of my life (at this point in time, anyway) it's reached the hour to summarize the best and worst of my time abroad.

Me in my new favorite city, Amsterdam

1) Favorite City - Amsterdam. I had no idea Amsterdam, all of Holland for that matter, was going to be so beautiful. The clean air, water canals, windmills and brick roads make for a truly picturesque setting. The citizens completely support renewable energy and they ride their bikes everywhere. I'll never forget trying to cross the street during rush hour and looking head on at a gang of a least 50 bike ninjas..the women had their high-heels slung across their backs and their dresses pushed to the side. Amsterdam had the best flea market of any country, the friendliest people and the most abundant flowers. Not to mention the Ann Frank Haus was one of the most touching memorials I have ever witnessed.

2) Least Favorite City - Paris. Ughhhhh too many people. And the smell! I know that I should probably give it a second chance, preferably during a time of the year that isn't so touristy. The Eiffel Tower is cool, but up close it looked like a bunch of barbed wire twisted into a huge tower. The Louvre was impressive, but with so many people there it was really just a battle of crowds. The subway was a public bathroom and the smell was very close to intolerable. The worst part, however, where the people. I have never had so many people turn their noses up and frown in my direction when all I'm doing is sitting there. At least by the end of it I learned not to take it personally and I stared them right back down.

Mussels in Brussels

3) Best Meal - Mussels in Brussels. The capital of Belgium is famous for their mussels and fries and I can absolutely see why. They brought out a massive bowl with pounds of the shelled morsels marinated in white wine. Our waiter taught us that the proper way to eat them is using one mussel (minus the meat) to pry the meat out of the other mussels. I literally felt euphoric after eating so many mussels and there was never that uncomfortably full feeling. Fries complement the mussels perfectly. I've tried to duplicate this meal three times since being back in the states to absolutely no avail. Following the mussels and fries I had an amazing Belgium blonde beer in a viking horn cup, followed immediately by Belgium waffles smothered in nutella and strawberries. 2nd place meal was fondue in Luzern, Switzerland.

Hiking in the Swiss Alps

4) Worst Meal - too many to count. Overall I wasn't horribly impressed with the food in Europe, especially England and Ireland. I never, however, had a meal so horrible that I couldn't eat it. I'm disappointed that I never consumed my dream Italian meal....hand-rolled pasta with crusty fresh-baked bread and Tuscan wine. I probably wasn't forking over enough money for a meal of that caliber but I had my fingers crossed anyway...

5) Best Memory - Tie between hiking in the Swiss alps and skinny dipping in the french riviera. Alexa, Justine and I quickly learned that the Swiss aren't the best at marking trails or leaving signs so we probably trespassed the entire time. The mountain was extremely steep, but the air was so crisp and the views so breathtaking that it didn't matter. The French riviera is a topless beach, however this American wasn't very thrilled about the idea of exposing myself to a bunch of strangers. I choose, instead, to swim very, very far out and throw my swimsuit to a nearby friend. While she had her back turned I swam around like a mermaid and turned my sun-soaked face to the ancient, white buildings that lined the coast. Bliss.

Touring Ireland via Bicycle

6) Favorite way to see a Country - Bike. I had so much fun doing the bike tour of County Clare, Ireland with dad. The European group tour was great because I saw so many bucket-list things, but it was a stressful whirlwind that provided a sample of everything but never a true, long, taste. Biking in Ireland we would see women hanging their laundry, we could take detours, talk to locals and discover things for ourselves. It was a very interactive, alive experience. I'm a natural wanderer and the bikes provided the perfect tool for making good speed while still seeing everything that we would have if on foot.

7) Best Hotel - NH Musica, Amsterdam. We were only two per room, rather than the usual four or five so we had plenty of space. The bathrooms were clean and modern with marble sinks, towel warmers and deep bathtubs. The rooms themselves had lime green comforters and accent walls. A helpful staff, blasting air conditioning and high-speed internet sealed the deal. The breakfast buffet they provided was so delicious that I had to go through the line at least three times. They had every kind of fresh-squeezed juice, warm baked bread, platters of fresh fruit, scrambled eggs, bacon, potatoes and pancakes.

Amanda repacking her bags to
flee our Florence hotel

8) Worst Hotel - Hotel Patrizia, Florence. They don't even have a website they are so disorganized. The hotel was located on the third floor of a building without a working elevator. Basic amenities including water and electricity were not working when we arrived. Luxuries such as air conditioning and internet were out of the question. The staff was rude and short-tempered. When our tour director found human feces on the floor of his bathroom we called it quits and got a room at the Best Western. In defense of EF tours, when I got back to the states I had a check for sixty dollars waiting for me, reimbursement for that disgusting room.

9) Places I sprinkled Thomas' Ashes - Ireland, France, Italy and Spain.

10) Favorite Artist - This one's really hard. Monet's water-Lilly series actually made me cry and Goya's Dark Paintings were intriguing in a "tap into my dark-side" sort of way. I could look at Salvador Dali's Girl Standing at the Window everyday, it makes me feel like I'm safely nestled in at our Gardner Lake house. The Sistine Chapel is almost too much to comprehend, especially when you take into consideration that such a large portion was done by one man.Those are my winners Monet, Goya, Salvador Dali and Michelangelo.

Salvador Dali's "Girl at a Window"

11) Favorite Building - Gaudi's Casa Battlo in Barcelona. Gaudi must have seen the world in such a beautiful light. I truly wish that our entire world was designed like the interior of this house. Our imaginations could go wild and there would be no such thing as a straight line.

12) Best Natural site - The Cliffs of Moher were breathtaking, and biking up those cliffs definitely made me feel like I earned the view. The ocean at Nice had the must alluring water I have ever jumped into and the Swiss Alps crushed the Rockies.

13) Best Music - Ireland. There was live music in pretty much every pub we walked into after 6 p.m. The style was romantically reminiscent and drunkenly rowdy all at the same time. My favorite new Irish song is entitled "The Galway Shawl" which dad and I saw performed at a pub in Dublin.

14) What I missed about home - Easy access to free water and clean bathrooms. No language barrier. Waking up sandwiched between Chris and Stella.

15) What I'll miss about Europe - The history. Everything over there is so much older than in this young country we live in. The stories that seep out of every brick and light pole are remarkable. History brings with it influential thinkers and artists, battles and culture. Marcus Garvey once said "A people without the knowledge of their past history, origin and culture is like a tree without roots." The trees of our culture are so much thicker and deeper in the old world, and it's fallen leaves have been lovingly collected and preserved.

15) Thanks - Big giant thank you to all the wonderful people I got to experience this trip with.

You can't have him! He's MY dad

Dad, we will never forget our Ireland biking tour. I'm so lucky to have a dad that I not only respect and admire, but that I also get along with so well. Thanks for being exactly what I would want in a father.

Alexa, you are a wonderful human being. Having a friend who also happens to be a walking encyclopedia on all things medieval came in pretty handy! In addition to being smart you are fun, easy-going and adventurous.... traits that are very admirable, particularly in a travel buddy. I sincerely hope we stay in touch.

Justine, Alexa and I on Alexa's birthday in Rome

Justine - Your quirky and alternative perspective was constantly refreshing. You are down to earth and real, not to mention you really see people for who they are. Your life-long friendship with Alexa is inspiring and I hope to see you both in California sooner than later.

Amanda - Roomie! I am so excited for you to continue your European exploration while studying in Florence. We roomed together pretty much the entire trip and never once had a hiccup. Smart, beautiful, and outgoing, I know you will do great things in the world. If I ever need a lawyer, I'm calling you.

Me with Beth (left) and Amanda (right)

Beth - you lovable jap! (Jewish American Princess....I'm not racist guys). You probably made me laugh more than anyone else on our trip. Thank you for always speaking your mind, loudly. Our dinner in Paris remains one of my favorite evenings spent abroad. I will be calling you next time I'm visiting family in Florida so get ready!

And, of course, a big massive thanks to the wonderful people at Mother Earth News magazine. For hiring me, then encouraging me to see the world first. I'm home and more excited to join your team than ever before!

In conclusion, I wouldn't change anything about my time abroad. I made some amazing new friends, checked about a thousand things off my bucket list, and learned more about art and architecture than I imagined possible. I have also enjoyed blogging so much that I've been brainstorming blog themes for while I'm home. I've settled on blogging about my progress on the online herbal medicine course I have signed up for via "Herb Mentor." I'll write all about my attempts, successes and failures at  making herbal remedies and salves, teas and lotions from my own kitchen. Stay tuned for more!

Mercado de San Miguel, Farewell Madrid

Mercado de San Miguel

On our last day in Europe we took a short walk through the Parque del Retiro, one of the largest parks in Madrid. There were statues everywhere and a huge pond with people paddle boating. I took the opportunity to sprinkle some of Thomas' ashes under a huge tree so that I could add Spain to his resting grounds.

For lunch we went to an up-scale open air market named Mercado de San Miguel. For those from Kansas City who recognize this comparison, it was like a localized, open air Dean and Deluca. The roof was covered, but all the sides and doorways were open to the elements, mist poured from the ceiling to keep the people and food cool while fans kept fresh air circulating. There were multiple tapas stands, freshly caught seafood, exotic fruit drinks, butcher's shops and ripe fruit. People clustered around truffles and stuffed olives, popping them into their mouths and delighting over the flavors. My favorite food invention was a pickle cut down the middle and stuffed with tuna salad and a roasted red pepper, held together with a toothpick and olive. Um....genius? I will be trying this at home sooner than later.

Tuna stuffed pickles....genius

Our last night in Europe we had a group farewell dinner. We ate paella, which is a common dish in Madrid. It is a rice and seafood stir-fry with never ending variations. We took group pictures and said our farewells. Our group was from all over the states, from Florida and New Jersey to California, Texas, Utah and Kansas. We hope to have a reunion at some point next year...we were thinking maybe a Colorado white-water rafting trip.

Farewell dinner

Stuffed olives galore

I had so much fun taking picture at the open air market that I can't help but share a few more...

Butcher's shop

Oysters and champagne

Autumn delights

Catch of the day

Local fruits and veggies

Beans, every color of the rainbow

Meandering through Museums

The rest of my time in Madrid was spent soaking up artwork, both contemporary and classic at the Prado and Reina Sofia art museums while taking short breaks to consume tapas and sangria. We visited the National Museum of Prado directly after the Royal Palace. They throw the doors open at 6 p.m., waive any admissions fees and let the public roam the halls.

I understand that many people find museums boring, and hearing someone talk about a museum is even worse. For that reason I'm pretty much just going to picture the highlights of the artwork I saw at both museums, more to keep personal tabs on my art adventures than anything else. So...things I witnessed at the Prado...

Fra Angelico "The Annunciation"

Bosch "Table of the Seven Deadly Sins"

Bosch "Garden of Earthly Delights"

Patinir "Crossing the Styx"

Durer "Self Portrait"

Mor "Queen Mary Tudor"

Rubens "The Three Graces"

Rembrandt "Judith at the Banquet of Holofernes"

Goya " The Naked Maja"

Goya " The Third of May"

Goya " Saturn Devouring his Child"

Saturn Devouring His Child is part of The Black Paintings which were all present at the Prado. The Black Paintings were done by Goya later in life and are all extremely dark and gloomy. The Black Paintings were painted with oil directly onto the walls of his dining and living rooms, later to be peeled off and framed.  The picture on the left depicts the Greek myth in which Saturn, in fear of his children overthrowing him, eats them all as soon as they are born. This series interests me in the same way that Edgar Allen Poe tickles my fancy.

Sorolla "Children on the Beach"

Raphael "The Cardinal"

The Prado has largely medieval, classical work whereas The Reina Sofia, was full of contemporary, surrealism with the highlights being both Picasso and Salvador Dali. Things I witnessed as the Reina Sofia...

The "Living wall" near the museum

Salvador Dali "Face of  the Great Masturbator" 

Oscar Dominguez "Electrosexual
Sewing Machine"

Picasso "Bust and Palette"

Salvador Dali "Natura Morta"

Salvador Dali " Portrait of Luis  Bunuel"

Joan Miro "Man With a Pipe"

Picasso "Woman in Blue"

Anglada Camarasa " Portrait of Sonia de Klamerry,
Countess of Pradere"

Juan Gris "Portrait de Madamme Josette Gris" 

Salvador Dali "Girl From the Back"

Salvador Dali "Girl Standing at the Window"

Santos Torroella "A World"

Defining "Extravagant"...The Royal Palace of Madrid

The Royal Palace of Madrid

The final city of our whirl-wind European tour was Madrid. Located inland, this Spanish city says goodbye to the lazy beach vibe that accompanies Barcelona and embraces a more metropolitan feel. Madrid is home to both the Prado and the Reina Sofia art museums, both of which I had the chance to visit. But before I was able to do any museum meandering we were led on a guided tour through the Royal Palace of Madrid.

The Royal Palace is still used for state dinners and meetings with diplomats but the royal family no longer lives there. Construction of the palace which includes 2,800 rooms, a massive chapel and multiple gardens, took 25 years to complete. The palace was remodeled in the french style in the 19th century after Alfonso XII was inspired by his visit to Versailles . The palaces are similar, however Versailles is too gaudy for my taste while the Royal Palace of Madrid is simply exquisite. Well done Spain!

Stradivarius instruments are famed for their
exquisite craftsmanship

Highlights of the palace included seeing artwork by Goya and Caravaggio which decorate the walls and the elaborately woven, massive rugs on the floors. There is a table (still used for state dinners) that can fit 144 people comfortably.The palace is home to the world's only complete Stradivarius string quintet. According to legend, Stradivarius instruments are so perfectly made that no one can replicate their perfect tone and rich voice. The ones displayed at the Palace even looked magical, with pictures of dancing women and strange symbols carved into the trim. The instruments have to be played once a month to keep them tuned so a small private concert is held each month in the Palace using nothing but the Stradivarius string instruments. What I would give to be at one of those concerts....

The Royal throne is unique in the sense that it contains the original decor from the reign of Carlos III (1770). The room is draped in velvet wall coverings complemented by a frescoed ceiling done by Tiepolo and lit with a crystal chandelier. (Crystal chandeliers hang in almost every one of the 2,800 rooms). On either side of the thrown are two intimidating gold lions which are often portrayed in Spanish artwork.

The throne room

We then entered the most elaborate room I have ever been in or imagine myself entering again. What was the purpose of this room, you may ask...oh just for the King to drink coffee in. The room itself took 50 years to complete, twice as long as the entire castle. The porcelain ceiling is detailed with eastern images of women under umbrellas and with lotus blossoms. The walls are covered in ivory fabric and embroidered with vines and flowers of every color imaginable. The floor is such a complex mosaic of  richly colored spirals that you find yourself wanting to  get down on your hands and knees and trace them...well at least that's what I wanted to do. I snuck a little touch of the wall simply because I longed to feel its elegance and value. All three aspects, the ceiling, walls, and floors were so ornate that you would think it might be overwhelming... now-days if we have crazy wallpaper, our floors and ceilings are relatively plain. But no, the three elaborate aspects of the room somehow worked in cohesion to form the most luxurious surroundings I've ever witnessed. At this point in the tour it was official, the Royal Palace of Madrid beats Versailles hands down.

Most elaborate room in the world

The Porcelain Room

The final highlight of the tour was a relatively small room fittingly named "The Porcelain Room." Charles III had the Royal Porcelain factory create all the porcelain for this room which was completed in 1771. The walls and ceiling of the relatively small room are completely covered in  delicate porcelain. I can imagine no royal children were ever allowed in this highly breakable little corner of luxury.

 (Cameras were not allowed inside the Royal Palace so all photos seen in this blog post are courtesy of the good 'ol interweb).

Seating for 144 of the world's finest